Good Food

Cooking With Viggo

By Chef Viggo Anderson

Hello again folks. This time I would like to take you to another country, Spain, more specifically to the districts of Rioja and Jerez.

Here, breakfast is usually a light affair and the midday meal is not served before two or three - even as late as four - in the afternoon. A evening meal is nine-thirty or ten o'clock, and even later. These lengthy stomach-grumbling gaps between meals , however , can be stopped most pleasantly: the custom here, when you get hungry, to head straight for the nearest bar. There, virtually the entire surface of the bar-top is covered with plates bearing a variety of appetizing morsels.

As "copita" after "copita" of cool fine sherry, or tiny squat tumblers of thick red wine are downed in endless succession , the floor soon becomes littered with discarded toothpicks and crumpled paper napkins. For no self-respecting Spaniard would dream of drinking his mid-morning or early-evening glass of wine without first munching on a grilled prawn, a bite of fried fish, or even just an olive.

These bite-sized snacks are known in the south as tapes. The word means cover because in dusty Andalusia a lid , saucer, or even a piece of bread was placed over wine glasses. An enterprising proprietor conceived the idea of attracting customers by putting an appetizer on each lid.

And so the tradition began.

In the north, such snacks go by the name of banderillas, after the flag-bedecked darts used to stab and enrage a bull in the Corrida de toros.

Not surprisingly, the bar-top banderillas are toothpicks speared onto such tasty morsels as tortillas (pieces of cold Spanish omelets), chiperones (minute ink-fish fried in olive oil), pickles, marinated mushrooms, artichokes, carrots, cheese, boquerones (fresh anchovies marinated in vinegar and oil), and chorizo ( a spicy paprika-flavored sausage).

The two regions are a study in contrast. Jerez lies within Adalusia, the land where the midnight air is perfumed with the heavy scent of orange blossom and where one finds the elite chalk hills on which the finest Palomino grapes grow. The humid Levant blows from the Sahara, and the region's usual heat is compounded by an oppressive heaviness. At such times, one can seek relief in the tulip-shaped form of copitas of sherry, or in jugs of fruit-filled Sangria, and bowls of ice-cold gazpacho.

Rioja, is a different region with entirely different character. The Ebro valley is rich, filled with lavish produce of all kinds, and covered with fields of vines. Winters here are surprisingly harsh and icy winds blow from the Sierra de Cantabria. Then , warmth is provided by oak fires, rich warm stews and roasted meat, plus the comfort of mellow oak-aged red wines. And a rich yet light dessert "Crema de Chocolate," which is served with a dark, buttery and reassuringly warm sherry.

So, let's make it!

serves 4

3 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs
4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped
one half cucumber, peeled and finely chopped
3 green peppers, de-seeded and finely chopped
1 onion , peeled and finely chopped
5 tbsp olive oil
3 3/4 cup of cold water
almonds, crushed and chopped
2 garlic cloves. peeled and crushed, finely chopped
3 tbsp fine wine vinegar
salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper

Put breadcrumbs, tomatoes, cucumber, green peppers, onion, and olive oil in a large bowl. Stir in cold water, and leave for 1 hour.

Puree the mixture, and season to taste. add almonds, garlic, and wine vinegar. Chill for several hours, and serve with slices of the other cucumber half, pepper and onions as garnish.

Suggested wines:

Sangria or a chilled cold "Marques de Caceres" Rioja white. Pale straw color. Fruity bouquet with notes of wild flowers. Fresh and clean.

Crema de Chocolate

Chocolate Mousse serves 6

8 oz dark chocolate
1 oz butter
1 tsp vanilla essence
Grated rind and juice of 1 orange
4 egg yolks, beaten
4 egg whites, beaten until stiff
2/3 cup double cream
1/2 cup chopped almonds

Gently melt chocolate and butter in a saucepan. When thoroughly melted, remove from heat and blend in vanilla, orange rind and juice. Beat in egg yolks, one at a time. Gently fold in egg whites. Pour in to a glass bowl, or 6 individual glasses, and chill for about 4 hours.

Serve decorated with whipped cream and chopped almond.

Suggested wine:

A dark, sweet smooth sherry. "Don PX Grand Reserva 1972." Classic character, opague, black mahogany color, with a caramel-like bite enhancing the balance. Only 10,000 bottles produced. From Jerez--a real treat !!!.

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