Cooking With Viggo

By Chef Viggo Anderson

A food and wine tradition linked to both cultures, but with a character of its own--this is Alsace!

Vosges mountain cuts off Alsace from the rest of France, and the region is separated from Germany by the Rhine.

This region has been one of the most fought over in Europe. Its history of turmoil, moreover, is not confined to last World War or the one before. At least as long ago as the ninth century, the region was bartered continuously--a prize for the biggest and strongest.

Constant conflict has contributed to the unique character of Alsace. Many older people speak German, other speak an Alsatian dialect. One goes in to a weinstube, with carved barrels and dark mahogany seats, instead of the usual Gallic Cafe. In homes and restaurants classic regional dishes included "Escargots," "Coq au Riesling," and "Foie Gras," but equally popular are such as "Sauer Kraut" and sausages, and "Backeofe" (a rib-sticking Alsatian stew).

Another indication of the Alsatian dual nature is that wine struggles for supremacy with lager beer.

As long ago as 1575, there were mandates specifying which varieties of wine grapes could be grown. To day, noble grape varieties with extremely different characteristics are cultivated in this region.

The best wines of Alsace are Riesling, Gewuerztraminer, Muscat, Sylvaner, Pino Gris (Tokay d'Alsace), Pino Blance (Klevner) and Pinot Noire.

Clearly, the influence of both cultures on wine and food is approached with nothing short of revenge. Here in Alsace, Gallic high seriousness is balanced with Germanic gusto.

So, let's make some food from Alsace.

Coq au Riesling
(Chicken in Riesling)
Serves 4

3 lb chicken
2 oz butter
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp cognac
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 1/4 cups Riesling wine
2/3 cups whipping cream
1/4 lb fresh mushrooms, sliced
salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper
Freshly chopped parsley

Cut chicken into 8 pieces and fry in butter and oil until golden. Pour cognac into a ladle, warm, then set alight with a match. Pour flaming cognac over chicken; the flames will die down in a minute. Remove chicken pieces from pan and set aside. Add the shallots to pan juices, and fry gently for 1 minute. Add wine, cream, mushrooms, salt, and black pepper. Stir until sauce is smooth, then return chicken pieces to pan. Cover and cook over a low heat for about 45 minutes until tender. Remove the lid and cook for another 10 min. until sauce is reduced. Adjust seasoning, and garnish with chopped parsley.

Serve with buttered noodles.

Suggested wine: A good Riesling d'Alsace.

Backeofe
(Alsatian Meat and Potato Stew)
serves 6

3/4 lb lean pork
3/4 lb lamb meat
1 lb beef meat
1 1/4 cup Alsatian dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp dried thyme
salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1/2 lb onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1 1/2 lb red potatoes, peeled and sliced

Cut meat into 2-inch cubes and put into a large bowl. Pour over wine and seasonings, and leave to marinade overnight.

Grease a large casserole and make alternate layers of onions, potatoes, and meats. Pour marinade over the top. Cover and cook in a preheated oven at 350 degrees for about 2 hours or until tender.

Serve piping hot, with a salad and fresh bread.

Suggested wine: Tokay d'Alsace.

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