A Visit to Madeira

By Unknown Writer #2

Chef Viggo Anderson

The discovery and rediscovery of the island of Madeira is one of the most colorful and romantic in history. It is accurately documented in the household records of the Infante Dom Henrique of Portugal, who sailed with Joao Goncalves Zarco on all his voyages. Some said that this 15th-century manuscript, written all in old Portuguese, had never been translated. But it was published in Paris in 1671 under the title "Relation Historique de la Decouverte d'Isle de Madere" and in London 1675 as "The First Discovery of the Island of Madeira." I suggest you find and read this story; it is too long for me to write here.

The oldest documented maps tell us Madeira was discovered around 1351; the original of the map is in the Laurentian Library in Florence. Madeira was officially made a province of Portugal by order of the King in 1425 and donated to Prince Henry, who ordered sugar canes from Sicily and grape vines from Crete to be planted on the island. Both plants flourished in the volcanic soil and mild climate on Madeira. The following poem describes Madeira as it deserves to be described:

Cyprus and Paphos vales, the smiling Loves

Might leave with joy for Madeira's groves;

A shore so flowery, and so sweet an ear,

Venus might build her dearest temple here.

--Camoens' Lusiad, 1569, Volume I Canto V

The first settlers of Madeira were of noble families from Portugal, as well as Flemish, Genoese, Germans, Polish, French and British adventurers, so the food of Madeira is very interesting and versatile. And the wine from Madeira is wonderful. The most known wines are Canteiros, Rainwaters, Buals, Malmseys, and Sercials. Each one has its own classification.

So, let's make some food from Madeira.

Chicken with Sercial Madeira

serves 4

4 pound chicken

Salt

3-4 Tbsp pork fat or butter

2-3 Tbsp flour

1 cup chicken stock

3/4 cup Madeira

1 cup pitted green olives

Wash chicken and dry well. Cut into serving portions and season with salt. Coat each piece of chicken with fat or butter and place in a saucepan with a small amount of the stock.

Set to cook over a slow heat with a lid on. In a frying pan, heat the rest of the fat (or butter) and brown the flour in this to make a roux. Stir constantly, letting the flour just brown and not burn.

Add the remaining stock and the Madeira (Sercial), and stir well. Pour this sauce over the chicken, add half of the olives and cook on low heat until chicken meat is tender and the sauce has thickened.

Arrange the chicken pieces on a serving dish, cover with the sauce and garnish with the remaining olives. Serve with croutons and a salad.

Madeira pudding (Pudding Ingles)

serves 3

1 cup bread, diced fine

1/2 pint milk

3 eggs

2 Tbsp brown sugar

1 Tsp grated lemon rind

8-10 Tbsp Madeira wine

Mix the bread, sugar, and lemon rind and toss in a bowl. Bring the milk to a boil, pour in the beaten eggs while stirring, then add the Madeira. Pour this mixture over the diced bread, sugar and lemon rind and let soak for 15 - 20 minutes. Then pour into a buttered mold and steam gently for 2 hours.

Serve with whipped cream and a raspberry sauce.

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