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By Unknown Writer #5

Nov 30, 2000 -- Fine Dining in Magnolia

The holiday season is upon us, and perhaps you're itching for that perfect dining experience, one that you'll be talking about for months, if not years, to come. If, like most people, you can only treat yourself to an expensive, fancy dinner on the most special of occasions, we recommend you skip Belltown this year and head straight to Magnolia Village.

Szmania's Restaurant, owned by Ludger and Julie Szmania (pronounced Smahn-ya), opened 10 years ago, after Ludger left his post as Executive Chef at the Olympic Four Seasons Hotel downtown. Chef Ludger is from Duesseldorf, Germany, and it was in Germany that he got his initial training. His artistry in the kitchen has earned Szmania's a place in local and national "Seattle Top 10" listings.

Szmania's is bustling yet warm and cozy, located in a neighborhood where you won't have to search or pay for parking. Everything about Szmania's is first-rate, from the food to the service.

Of course, fabulous food is the real reason any of us go out to eat, and the more we pay, the more we expect. Chef Ludger's creations will leave you sighing and drooling. Every bite elicits this response, from the appetizers and salads to the entrees and desserts. This is one of those places where the server, when asked, "What's good?" can legitimately answer, "Everything!"

Chef Ludger built Szmania's menu around three regional cuisines, from Germany, Thailand and the Pacific Northwest. This may seem an odd mix, but he has worked it to perfection.

The appetizers are wonderful. We tried the house-smoked salmon, which came on a perfect potato pancake. The salmon absolutely danced on our tongues. The sampler platter, which changes every night, offers an excellent variety of tastes and textures. The salads are all just plain great. My personal fave is the heart of romaine with warm pancetta and melted Roquefort vinaigrette. The sensation is like a pleasantly charged smack upside the head. Mmmmm.

The seared ahi tuna with Thai red curry sauce and roasted eggplant on a black rice cake is spectacular. The tuna is perfectly seared outside, nice and red on the inside, and the accompaniments work wonderfully. The gebackene ente (roasted duckling) will leave your jaw hanging open. Indeed, even the servers seem to hold the duckling above the crowd of other fantastic dishes.

During a recent visit, we were lucky enough to try the special Oktoberfest 2000 menu, which offered a terrific selection of German favorites that must make Chef Ludger homesick. We tried the hasenpfeffer (that is rabbit, for those of you who grew up without Bugs Bunny) and Ludger's sauerbraten, both of which were, well, you get the point.

Do not skip dessert! Everything on the dessert menu is incredible. The Germans understand sweets. My personal weakness is the creme brulee trio, which consists of three different flavors of perfectly flamed cremes. Again, mmmmm.

Finally, the price is considerable, but a worthwhile investment -- expect to pay about $55 per person.

If you are in the mood for a truly memorable dining experience this holiday season, without having to battle downtown traffic, parking and prices, head to Magnolia Village and treat yourself to Szmania's. You will not be disappointed.

Szmania's Restaurant, 3321 W. McGraw St., 284-7305.

Dinner is served Tuesday - Sunday from 5 p.m. Reservations are strongly recommended. Lunch is served Tuesday - Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. (In December lunch will be served only through the 21st.)

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