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Good Food

Cooking with Viggo

Lucky Beans for the New Year

By Chef Viggo Anderson


Chef Viggo Anderson
Jan 11, 2001 -- Around the world certain foods have traditionally been eaten on New Year's Day to bring good luck. During the Twelfth Night festivities of medieval Europe, the lucky finder of a bean buried in a special holiday cake was deemed "king" of the celebration. In England this ritual evolved into an annual "bean feast."

For as long as anyone can remember folks in the American South have served black-eyed peas (actually a bean indigenous to West Africa!) on January 1 for good luck. One of the South's most popular black-eyed pea dishes is Hoppin' John, in which the beans are cooked with smoked pork and served with rice. Though generally regarded as a South Carolina specialty, Hoppin' John shows up all over the country, and comes in as many variations as there are cooks.

Besides its potential for bringing good luck, there are many reasons that this little dotted bean has become a favorite. People enjoy its wonderful texture (creamier and less starchy than other dried beans), its readiness to absorb the flavors of other ingredients and its affinity for pickling. Midwestern enthusiasts call their pickled peas "Texas Caviar"!

So let's make some Hoppin' John, along with a traditional Southern dessert. Here's wishing you all a peaceful and happy New Year, and may you all have good fortune!


Hoppin' John
Black-Eyed Peas with Kielbasa
Serves 4

1 cup dried black-eyed peas
6 oz. smoked kielbasa sausage
1 medium onion
2 cloves garlic
3 ribs celery
Half of a fresh jalapeno pepper
1 bay leaf
1-1/2 Tbsp. olive oil
1-3/4 cups chicken broth
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh coriander leaves

Soak black-eyed peas until soft (overnight). Quarter kielbasa lengthwise, and cut quarters crosswise into half-inch pieces. Chop onions and mince garlic. Cut celery crosswise into half-inch-thick slices. Seed and mince jalapeno.

In a heavy 3-quart kettle cook kielbasa, onion, garlic, celery, jalapeno, and bay leaf in oil over moderate heat, stirring, until onions are softened. Add peas and broth, and cover. Simmer 20 minutes, or until peas are tender. Discard bay leaf, and stir in coriander and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve Hoppin' John spooned over cooked rice.


Spiced Pecan Pie
Serves 8 to 10

1-1/2 recipes pastry dough (recipe follows)
1/2 tsp. finely ground anise seeds
1-1/4 cups sugar
2-1/2 cups light corn syrup
6 large eggs
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
Pinch of salt
3 cups pecan halves

On a lightly floured surface, with a floured rolling pin, roll out pastry dough to fit a 10-inch glass pie plate, and crimp edge decoratively. Chill the shell at least 1 hour, and up to 1 day.

Preheat the oven to 350* F. In a dry heavy saucepan cook 1/2 cup of sugar over moderately low heat, stirring slowly with a fork to let sugar melt evenly into a golden caramel.

Cook until deep gold, add corn syrup, and simmer until caramel is dissolved (caramel will harden before dissolving). Let caramel cool. Whisk remaining ingredients (except pecans) together in a bowl and, in a slow stream, carefully whisk caramel into the egg mixture. Spread pecans in shell and pour filling in, tapping down the pecans until thoroughly coated. Bake in the middle of oven until crust is golden pale, 40 to 45 minutes.

Remove from oven and cool completely. Serve with a premium vanilla ice cream.


Pastry Dough

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. cold vegetable shortening
1/4 tsp. salt
2-4 Tbsp. water

Blend flour, butter, shortening, and salt together until mixture resembles a coarse meal with small lumps. Drizzle the cold water over the mixture and gently mix in until it forms a dough--just enough so it doesn't fall apart. Let cool before rolling.



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