Seattle Press on Line - Timeless Greek Cooking

Timeless Greek Cooking

Jan 24, 2001 -- This week I would like to take you to Greece, because I had such a good time there with my family. More than any cuisine in Europe, Greek food and wine are linked to a way of life that is at once indigenous and timeless.

The sea of olive trees that extends over vast areas of the country is said to have belonged to the god Apollo. The legend of Dionysus, god of wine, is traced from the earliest times: certain vineyards were already famous for their wine in the ninth century B.C.

Olive oil, honey, nuts and wine are the basis of a cooking style with roots several thousand years old. Pungent wild herbs and rose or orange flower water are used to produce a variety of sticky cakes, pastries and confections today, as they have been for hundreds of years.

Greek meals are never rushed; one is led effortlessly into them. Orektika, appetizers that precede the meal, set the pace of an evening. An hour, two hours, even longer can be spent nibbling olives and nuts, taramosalate, hummus, tzatziki, cold stuffed dolmathes, bits of fried fish and much more.

Lamb and pork are cooked simply over charcoal fire, threaded on skewers (souvlakia), basted with lemon juice and olive oil, sprinkled with herbs. Fish is likewise barbecued outdoors. A sprig of fresh herbs is placed on the fire to give the air, as well the food, a beautiful charred scent of mountains.

So let's make some Greek food.

Moussaka (Baked Eggplant)
Serves 4-6 people

2 medium eggplants
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1 lb. ground lamb
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 Tbsp. oregano
Fresh parsley, chopped
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 16 oz. can tomatoes
2 Tbsp. breadcrumbs

Sauce:
2 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. flour
2 cups hot milk
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 egg yolks
1 cup grated Swiss cheese

Thinly slice eggplants lengthwise. Salt and leave to stand one hour, to remove bitterness. Pat dry. Heat oil in a large frying pan. Fry slices until soft and slightly brown on both sides. Remove from pan and drain on a towel.

Saute onion and garlic until golden. Add lamb and fry until browned. Add cinnamon, oregano, parsley, salt and pepper, and stir in tomatoes. Bring to a boil and simmer about 45 minutes.

Grease a large ovenproof dish, and sprinkle bottom with the breadcrumbs. Alternately layer in eggplant slices and meat mixture.

To prepare the sauce, melt butter in a saucepan and stir in flour. Cook over low heat for two minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and gradually stir in hot milk. Return pan to heat, bring to a boil and stir constantly, simmering until sauce thickens. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove from heat and stir beaten egg yolks into the sauce. Add two-thirds of the cheese and mix well. Spoon sauce over eggplant and meat. Sprinkle with remaining cheese, and bake in a preheated oven at 350 degrees F for about 45 minutes, until top is golden.

Serve piping hot with a good salad.

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Timeless Greek Cooking

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