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Well, let me tell you
A Tale of Two Taverns, Two Troubadors
Mar 22, 2001 --
Townes Van Zandt died on New Year's Day, 1997. Besides being perhaps the best Texas songwriter ever born, he was also known as someone who enjoyed a tipple or two. Or three, for that matter. A month or so after his death, the Tractor held a tribute to Townes. There were several memorable moments, but none so special as when Clay Bartlett strolled onto the stage and broke through the shadowy gloom of "Funeralosity." I smiled, finally feeling a sense of celebration for the life and gifts of the transcendent Texan poet/songwriter.
I was thinking about Townes Van Zandt last week as I strolled into the Barge Inn at about 5 p.m. Townes might agree, five o'clock is a fine time for a beer. And I'd come to the right place. You know how you can walk into a room and feel immediately at home? That's the Barge Inn. Clean, but not pristine, smoky but not throat-constricting, warm but not cloying. The bar is exactly the right height and width, the footrest hit my feet at the ideal spot, and Misty, the bartender, poured me a Moss Bay with a warm flash of a smile. I looked around. This spot is a step above your average neighborhood bar, with nice wainscoting and freshly painted deep ruby walls. But a neighborhood bar it is.
Everyone in the bar knew each other, but they were willing to include me, the interloper, in the conversation. There was talk of the preemie twins, born in November, who'd only just come home and were happily healthy. Misty offered a story about her wild child, the two-year-old Megan, who climbs up everything in the house.
Then there was this couple--as they sat down, I realized I knew them from somewhere, but I felt stupid saying "Don't I know you?" So we talked awhile. When they handed me a card, I remembered. It was the Comet Tavern, for god sakes. At one time, I had all but lived there, and Ken--one half of Ginny and Ken--had managed the place. We reminisced about Ethel, the "Cloud Room," and the fact that a woman could go there alone and NEVER feel threatened. The similarities between the two places were striking, though, thank god, there's no Cloud Room at the Barge Inn. There is, however, a pool table, and one odd, inviting touch: a copy of Bing Crosby's "Merry Christmas" on the back bar shelf. Townes and Bing--now there's a combination.
As I left, I couldn't help but feel like I'd just channeled the spirit of Townes there at the Barge, sipping that five o'clock beer. But me, I'm only a word writer. For the real Townes experience, stop in on a weekend. Clay Bartlett plays at the Barge at least once a month. Mention "White Freightliner," and I think he'd be honored to play it for you. The Barge Inn does an open mike every Monday, and has live music on Fridays and Saturdays. There is never a cover.
The Barge Inn, 610 NW 65th Street, (206) 789-9643.
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