Seattle Press on Line

3 Squares

By Unknown Writer #5

May 17, 2001 -- Breakfast in Magnolia

By now you have all heard the news that the City of Everett plans to tear down some Boeing buildings to build an exclusive 18-hole golf course. Psych! But that was the comparison I thought of while eating breakfast at the Bay Cafe at Fisherman's Terminal, imagining the Terminal's docks filled with pleasure craft instead of working boats. I love to sit eating my breakfast, surrounded by the people who harvest the seas, while I gaze out Bay Cafe's big windows upon an endless diversity of fishing vessels. I'd take that view any day over the homogeneous view of identical sailboats and yachts one sees through the windows of the restaurants at Elliott Bay Marina.

An honest working person can get an honest good meal at an honest price served by salt-of-the-earth, career servers at the Bay Cafe. For breakfast, which they serve all day, we had the California Omelette and the Vegetarian Omelette. Both were quite satisfying. And they came fast. With the volume this place does, I half expected the kitchen staff to explode at some point during our meal! Bay Cafe offers a variety of egg dishes and grilled bread products for breakfast, and has an even more extensive lunch menu. There are always lots of specials based on what seafood is fresh in the Terminal that day.

Bay Cafe, 1900 W Nickerson St., 282-3435.
Open Monday - Friday 6:30 a.m. - 2:15 p.m., Saturday - Sunday 7 a.m. -2:30 p.m.

Dinner in the University District

My neighbor and I were carrying on about restaurants the other day and we got talking about our pet peeves about Americanized Italian food. Like peas in Carbonara, or using the wrong kind of pasta for the sauce. I shared some of my favorite spots with him, and then he said, "Have you ever eaten at Mamma Melina's?" Ah, ha! A hot tip from an Italian food snob! I felt compelled (my arm still hurts from the twisting) to investigate on behalf of loyal Seattle Pressreaders.

Mamma Melina's is a cheery place under the Seven Gables movie theater at NE 50th Street and Roosevelt Way NE, featuring a piano player Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. We wandered in, sat down, and began examining the menu. I like menus that include a little history, and from theirs I learned that Mamma Melina began serving food here in 1990, after she moved with her husband from Italy to Seattle to rejoin their sons in 1989. Indeed, the restaurant itself is a family affair, serving Mamma's recipes skillfully prepared by son Roberto. Brother Salvio runs the dining room, which was painted by his father, Pasquale.

We started off with the Bruschetta al Pomodoro, which came wonderfully crunchy, and loaded with fresh, garlicky, basil-coated tomatoes. Delicious. We skipped salads for a change, strategically planning for dessert. For the main course, we had the Penne alla Siciliana and the night's special of baked halibut topped with puttanesca sauce. The Siciliana was terrific, nice and smoky from the mozzarella, and with the richness of a sauce that has cooked for hours. It was one of those dishes which evoked an "oh, my!" upon first bite. The halibut was baked in parchment paper, which resulted in a spectacularly moist and flavorful fish. The puttanesca was fresh and awesome, and the sides of roasted vegetables and potatoes, as well as spaghetti, were complementary and great.

We were feeling good at this point, but we wanted to see just how high Mamma would take us, so we ordered our dessert: Tiramisu and something called Zabaglione. Upon tasting the Tiramisu, I actually stood up and did the wave. No way could this be topped. Then we tried the Zabaglione. It is a concoction of marsala, eggs, sugar and whipped cream atop a bed of fresh strawberries, with shaved chocolate over all. I believe my exact words upon tasting it were, "Boy, howdy!" We had reached the pinnacle. There was no more food! My neighbor had given me excellent advice. I will have to stop dumping my grass clippings over his fence! (Just kidding. I never mow my lawn!)

Mamma Melina's, 4759 Roosevelt Way NE, 632-2271.
Open daily from 4:30 - 9:30 p.m.

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