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Eating in Eastlake

Working the order counter at Daly's Fish 'n' Chips.

Sep 27, 2001 -- Eating in Eastlake

By Zachary D. Lyons

Daly's Drive-In has been a fixture on Eastlake Avenue since 1962. In a city which seems ever growing, with old being torn down and replaced by new, this throwback to bygone days is refreshing.

While the decor is still unquestionably '60s, the view is as wonderful as any found at newer, pricier eateries. Grab a stool along the windowed counter, and enjoy your meal while peering out over Lake Washington to the Space Needle, Queen Anne Hill, or the Aurora Bridge, with the Olympic Mountains peaking up from behind. The view has never changed, save a few new buildings in the foreground.

The service is vintage as well. Friendly and quick, your food is cooked up fresh, served hot with a smile, and the price is easy on your wallet.

Daly's menu is equally straight-forward. Hamburgers, fish and chips, shakes, and a few other items. The burgers contend with some of the best in town. The star is the Daly Double--two patties, lettuce, cheese, tomato, onion, pickles, relish, mayo. It is a classic that satisfies the taste buds and the spirit. No, these are not gourmet burgers. They are just good. And you can get them veggie, salmon, chicken, or beef.

The fish and chips come with fried battered halibut or grilled King salmon. The fish, like the burgers, has few equals in Seattle. The salmon is lightly grilled, arriving moist and flavorful, without being overwhelmed with seasoning. The halibut is simply breaded, without being heavily herbed. Shake on a little malt vinegar, and find yourself in fish and chips heaven. The chips... hand cut, skin-on potatoes, perfectly fried and salted.

Round out your Daly's visit with a fresh, hand-made milkshake (choose from 19 flavors), and you will find yourself content for hours.

2713 Eastlake Ave E, 322-1918; Monday - Friday 10 a.m. - 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.; no credit cards.

A graceful mural complements the romantic mood in the bar at Serafina.

Amongst the little cluster of restaurants and watering holes lining Eastlake Avenue, you will find one of the darlings of Seattle eateries. Serafina, the creation of two former New Yorkers, has a feel of a place in Greenwich Village.

The dinner room is airy, yet romantic, with a dark, low ceiling, candle lit linen covered tables, and area lamps highlighting artwork which completes the feel. The cozy, dark bar near the entrance draws locals from the neighborhood for happy hour or a nightcap. And in clement weather, diners may enjoy their meal on the patio. Music, whether live or recorded, jazz or Latin, and is delicious to the ears.

The menu, which changes periodically, is rustic Italian, featuring pastas and entrees with rich flavors. Salads feature a fresh, enticing collection of greens. We tried the Insalata Classico--greens topped with wonderful big shavings of Reggiano--and a nightly special salad, featuring sweet tear-drop cherry tomatoes from Serafina's own P-patch garden nearby. Fresh bread is served gratis, with a delightfully seasoned olive oil for dredging.

For dinner, the one-time menu regular, Pasta di Giorno--rabbit simmered with rosemary jus, tossed with sweet purple peppers over fresh egg and spinach pappardelle pasta--now occasionally appears as a nightly special. We thoroughly enjoyed the rich seasoning with the mild rabbit meat over hearty egg noodles. The mix makes for true comfort food.

Griglia Misto, or mixed grill, is a menu regular, though its ingredients will change when the menu does. Currently it features a nice spicy Italian fennel sausage, baby chicken with lemon herb butter, and a delicious marinated lamb loin to please any meat-eater. Scallopine di Maiale alla Diavola--grilled pork medallions--kept my companion saying "fantastic" throughout the meal. Even the roasted fingerling potatoes were just right. And we enjoyed the simply dressed Muscovy duck breast of the Anitra alla Frutta Estiva. Grilled on the rare side, the duck was laid out around fresh greens and surrounded with a fresh fruit salsa. There are several excellent dishes for vegetarians.

The dessert menu has plenty of tempting choices, but Profiteroles are just too darned rare in Seattle for us to pass up. Serafina does them justice, keeping the pastry nice and chewy, and filling the tasty little puffs with caramel ice cream, with a topping of bittersweet chocolate sauce. These are worth the trip to Eastlake by themselves.

Serafina is on the other end of the price spectrum from Daly's. Expect to pay $60 - $80 for two. Reservations are recommended on weekends and during prime-time hours.

2043 Eastlake Avenue E, 323-0807; lunch Monday - Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday - Thursday, 5 - 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 - 11 p.m.

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