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Good Food
Good FoodOld and New Ballard Traditions
By Zachary D. Lyons
Dec 20, 2001 -- I hear talk of old Ballard and of all the development and new businesses in the 'hood, but honestly, from where I sit, the more things change, the more they stay the same. And it is that fact that makes me so happy a resident of this great city-within-the-city: The City of Ballard, with its very own hospital, its own financial district, its own industrial core, and even its own railroad. Heck, not only would we survive quite well should the rest of Seattle fall off into Puget Sound, but we would celebrate the end of 100 years of Seattle bureaucratic interference in our business, all for a bloody waterline.But I digress. This is supposed to be about food. Alrighty then, lets look at some Ballard institutions...real meat-and-potatoes places run by folks whose hearts are made of gold, and whose arms are wrapped around this community like a big hug--a necessity during a miserably cold, wet and blustery winter here.
Mike's Chili Parlor. (Zachary D. Lyons photo) |
Like a beacon welcoming visitors to the Great City of Ballard, Mike's sits alongside the Ballard Bridge on Ballard Way, just off the Leary Way exit ramp. It has been there since the 1920s. Mike Semandiris moved from Greece to Seattle via Chicago in 1914 and, shortly thereafter, opened his first chili parlor in the tiny building next to its current location. Eventually, he was able to buy the neighboring land and build his red brick temple of chili, and the Semandiris clan has been serving up Mike's hearty, delicious chili ever since.
The primary operators now are Mike's grandson, Phil, and his wife, Carol (or Mrs. Phil, or Mrs. Greek, or whatever folks are calling her today), and their daughter Penelope and son Mike also work there.
I suppose you want to hear about the chili, too. Well, Mike's serves chili. Lots of it. To hungry fishers and boat workers and garbage haulers and hard hats and, well, anyone who wants the best darn chili in town--and I mean in Seattle, not just Ballard! You can get it straight, with onions, cheese and jalapenos, over a dog, burger or steak, even over pasta or fries.
Mike's has great burgers, too, and wonderful hand-cut, skin-on fries, but go for the chili. And don't forget the $53.50 grilled cheese sandwich, priced so high as to discourage anyone from ordering it. And enjoy the complimentary abuse; it's listed right on the menu: free abuse.
1447 NW Ballard Way, 782-2808, open Monday - Thursday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Friday until midnight, Saturday, noon - 8 p.m., cash only, 21 and over.
Totem House Seafood and Chowder. (Zachary D. Lyons photo) |
Totem House has been cooking fish and chips across from the Ballard Locks, using the same family recipes, since 1948. Originally, in 1938, the building was a souvenir shop that did not survive WWII. It was built in the spirit of a Northwest tribal potlatch, complete with huge timbers and totems which, according to local elders, means, "give good gifts." Local tribes still honor the structure, and they have asked for the totems should the building ever be removed.
Dianne DeLatour is the third, er, fourth owner of the business. Third for fish and chips, fourth for the building itself. She bought Totem House in 1995, wanting to restore it to its rightful place in the culture of Ballard. She has done so very well, and the place is abuzz with locals and tourists alike.
The star of the fish and chips show here is Pacific Cod. Get it either as fillets or as Cajun Cod Bites. It rocks. Fish here is in a fairly simple breadcrumb batter, providing a nice texture and crunch, without being greasy or overly seasoned. Fries are crunchy, hand-cut, and perfectly salted. Onion rings are sweet and crunchy, but again, not greasy. Oysters are large breaded locals, and quite good. The clam chowder is the thick, stick-to-your-ribs, Northwest variety that will warm you up on a cold winter day. The popcorn shrimp, even though a frozen, prefab item, are really tasty. And Dianne even offers up a nice fresh, crisp Caesar salad, an uncommon item on a fast food menu.
3058 NW 54th St., 784-2300, open daily 11 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Suzanne Morrison pours Haecker-Pschorr Weiss beer at the People's Pub. (Zachary D. Lyons photo) |
John Norris's family moved to Germany in 1985, and while visiting them, he fell in love with the local cuisine. A few years back, as he tired of his job, Norris began to plan for his dream restaurant. He had been frustrated trying to find anything like the food he enjoyed in Southwest Germany, so he decided to replicate it himself. In 2000, he acquired the old Vasa space on Ballard Avenue, and the Monday before Thanksgiving, 2000, he debuted The People's Pub. He enlisted barmeister Drew Kondik to develop the bar, and Chef Kenan Fox to manage the kitchen. This core crew worked closely with the Ballard Historical Preservation folks to retain as much of the historic features of the Vasa as possible while developing the personality of their new establishment. The result is a new kid on the block that fits in like it's been there forever.
The dinner menu is mostly authentic German, with some Hungarian-influenced dishes, and a few universal favorites. The bar menu is nothing short of inspired. We decided to try a mix of the two. We started off with the bar menu: Deep Fried Pickles and Broiled Jalapeno Peppers. Okay, the pickles sound gross--they're not. In fact, they are fantastic, and a perfect complement to a tall German pint of beer, of which there is plenty. Honest. If for no other reason, go there to try the pickles. The peppers were stuffed with herbed goat cheese and wrapped with bacon. My companion and I fell about the place when we tasted them. They were incredible. We decided at that moment that even if the rest of the evening was a disaster, we could still rave about the place based upon these two dishes!
Of course, that did not happen, as everything else was great, too. Like the Paprikaschnitzel, a pan-seared pork cutlet dusted in paprika and sided with spaetzle and rotkohl (red cabbage). This Hungarian influenced dish was delightful true comfort food. And how about Fox's Oven Roasted Beet (not a typo)--a beet filled with rotkohl, walnuts, croutons, and a goat cheese sauce. For the vegetarians thinking they were out of luck at a Germanic eatery, this dish will not only suffice, it will blow them away. And the German Mixed Salad features fresh local greens, good sauerkraut, and a terrific German potato salad. There is plenty more on the menu, and given that we loved everything we tried, it is all likely a safe bet.
The People's Pub is so-named because Norris and crew want it to be a neighborhood gathering place for fine food and drink--sort of like a home away from home. (In Germany, every town hall has a pub in the basement.) Every Wednesday is German Language Night, with discounts on all German food and beer, and lots of spoken German. Mondays are trivia nights. And while called a pub, all ages are welcome in the front dining room until 10 p.m. every evening. Still, we thought it got its name because the owners, Norris and Kondik, do the dishes themselves.
5429 Ballard Ave. NW, 783-6521, open Monday, Wednesday -Friday 3 p.m. - 2 a.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. - 2 a.m. Dinner menu until 10 p.m., bar foods until late. No checks. Closed Tuesday.
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