Seattle Press on Line - Comfort in Wallingford

Comfort in Wallingford

By Zachary D. Lyons

Trace Burke, John Streimikes, server Amity Hilton (with pepper grinder) and Andres Springborn. Zachary D. Lyons photo

Jan 17, 2002 -- When I moved to Seattle in 1985, I first landed in Wallingford. I rented a big one-bedroom apartment for $160 per month. I was able to walk to wonderful parks, excellent movie theaters, good food, fun bars and great music venues. Much of this remains the same in Wallingford...with the glaring exception of the rent.

It is perhaps the food in this district which has improved the most over the last 17 years. Busy 45th Street is literally lined with eateries from I-5 to Stone Way. There are the old classics like Dick's Drive-In and newer sensations like Jitterbug. You will find food of every ethnicity, from Afghan to Japanese to Mexican to Irish. Indeed, much of Wallingford's traffic congestion can be tied to the proliferation of fine places to eat. It has become one of Seattle's destination neighborhoods.

Stoneway Cafe

A little bit off the beaten path in Wallingford is one of its classic eating places. Housed in a tiny structure, literally surrounded by a warehouse, it has been a restaurant since at least the 1950s. It became Stoneway Cafe in 1987, remaining under the same ownership until Bruce Trathen bought the business in 2000.

Ruth Oriel (laughing) and William Morris. Zachary D. Lyons photo.

When one looks at the humble structure housing Stoneway Cafe, one might be surprised to hear the route Trathen took to get there. He came from Houston by way of Kaspar's, Axis, and Sand Point Grill, moving up a rank each time until he was Executive Chef. When he took over at Stoneway in 1998, he finally became his own boss, with working hours that allowed him time to be a new daddy while continuing to be a chef--not an easy feat.

Trathen's Stoneway Cafe remains true to its roots, serving hearty breakfasts and lunches to Wallingford's hardhats and dock workers as well as its elite. He has tweaked the menu a bit, and will some more, but perhaps it is his attention to detail that has changed the place the most. Now everything is made from scratch, and he carefully seasons dishes, like the house potatoes, instead of leaving it entirely in the hands of the customer.

The breakfast menu features a small, straightforward, but surprisingly diverse selection of breakfast favorites. Eggs Benedict are served with a delicate, not overly-seasoned hollandaise sauce atop nicely poached eggs. The potatoes are indeed well-seasoned, only calling out for the hot sauce for those of us so inclined. The pancakes are huge, fluffy and delicious. I was unable to eat my order of three blueberry pancakes. Ask for just one or two pancakes if you get any sides with them! The biscuits and gravy were great--spicy, without being too spicy. The sausage satisfied while the gravy stuck nicely to my ribs on a very cold and rainy morning.

A variety of omelettes are available, with no overcooked eggs to be seen, as well as your basic eggs with meat options, including a nice looking Corned Beef Hash. And you'll find waffles, French Toast, and oatmeal--something for everyone. Lunch offers a nice selection of hot and cold sandwiches, salads, fresh daily soups and Blue Plate Specials. The tiny space has just four stools and seven tables, so you might have to wait a bit. It will be worth it.

Stoneway Cafe, 3620 Stone Way N, 547-9958, Monday - Friday, 7 a.m. - 2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Zachary D. Lyons photo.

Miriani's Cucina Italiana

It is no coincidence that Miriani's menu mirrors that of Ristorante Machiavelli on Capitol Hill. The restaurant was opened in 1996 by Machiavelli's owners. Two years later they sold it to current owner, Rene Perez. Perez moved here from San Francisco in 1989 to help open Machiavelli, and then shifted over to Miriani's to help open it. This operation is now a family affair. Perez runs the Wallingford pasta house with his sister, Blanca, the house chef. His brother, Julio, a fixture at Machiavelli, also helps out.

Miriani's has taken the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach with this proven winner of a menu. It features simple, basic, homestyle Italian recipes which have stood the test of time. Instead of yuppifying these classic dishes, Miriani's remains true to them. You will find no cream in the Fettuccine Carbonara, like at so many other local pasta joints. The result is a light yet peppy white sauce that fills you with warmth--a true comfort food from a country that specializes in comfort food.

Penne all'Amatriciana is scrumptious. A deeply developed marinara provides the base for the bacon, garlic, chilies and rosemary in this richly flavored dish. The Linguini Puttanesca, dare I say it, may even out-perform the one folks wait in line for at cousin Machiavelli. The sauce is just right--not too thick or too thin--with the marinara, anchovy, capers and olives working together in perfect harmony. This dish would be the envy of any Italian Red Light district. And the tomato cream sauce bathing the homemade Portabello Ravioli is divine.

The sauces are so satisfying here that you will find yourself sopping up every last drop with the chewy, crusty bread baked next door at Boulangerie. Start out with one of Miriani's great salads, available with anchovy or gorgonzola for those who enjoy a fragrant salad. Order up wine, beer, or a fine cocktail from the long bar. And save some room for dessert. Miriani's even has Diplomatico on its menu--that awesome variation on Tiramisu.

Miriani's has twice the seating capacity of its Capitol Hill cousin, so the table wait is much shorter. But stop by soon to see Rene, as he is off to train for the Army Reserves for several months, leaving his siblings behind to mind the store.

Miriani's Cucina Italiana, 2205 N 45th Street, 634-3436, Monday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m., Friday & Saturday, 5-11 p.m.

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