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Notes From the Garden

February in the Garden

Indoor Seed Germination

By Kimberly Christensen

Feb 14, 2002 -- Northwest gardeners, who find their growing season limited by cool and overcast summer days, often use indoor seed germination as a way of extending the growing season. Starting plants indoors also helps seedlings develop enough leaves and hardiness to withstand some slug damage without being killed. Besides, starting your own seeds has the benefit of producing seedlings at a fraction of the cost of nursery-bought transplants. And watching a plant's first leaves emerge despite gray and dreary February can give a gardener the courage to plan for spring.

Seeds are usually started indoors six to eight weeks before transplanting. Germination can require a few days or a few weeks, depending on the plants and any special preparation that the seeds may need. Since most plants won't fare well outdoors until April, and tender plants won't need transplanting until late May, seeds should be sown in stages from late February through March. Of course, seeds can be sown in intervals during the entire growing season. For example, basil sown in three week intervals starting in March will start yielding in June. As older plants are harvested, seedlings can be transplanted to replace them so that the harvest extends throughout the growing season.

Before digging out the pots and potting soil, the source of light needs to be considered. Indoor natural light in Seattle is generally insufficient for sprouting healthy seedlings. Seedlings require at least 12-16 hours of light per day. With inadequate light, seedlings become spindly and anemic and often do not survive transplanting. Supplementing with artificial light, even something as simple as incandescent light bulbs replaced with "grow-lights" or regular fluorescent tubes replaced with full-spectrum tubes, can improve the quality of seedlings tremendously. Ideally, these lamps should have flexible necks or be hung on ropes or chains. The light source should be kept about two inches above the seeds or leaves and raised accordingly as the plants grow. Inexpensive timers can also be attached to the lamps so that the plants have periods of dark to simulate "night."

Germinating seeds and young seedlings also prefer heat, usually temperatures ranging from 60-72 degrees Fahrenheit. If the seeds are not going to be kept in a heated area, then a heat source may be needed to warm the underside of the propagation trays. Heating pads with thermostats, heating cables covered with moist sand and the top of the radiator can all function as heat sources for germination. Once the plants sprout their cotyledons, or first leaves, the heat source can be phased out.

Once the light and heat sources have been determined, it's time to decide which type of pots to use. For tender plants whose roots don't like to be disturbed (these usually come in packages that say "don't start indoors" or "direct sow only"), peat pots or other fiber pots can be used. These pots will be planted along with the seedling. Newspaper molded around the bottom of a jar and reinforced with a piece of newspaper wrapped around it as a tie, can serve the same function as the peat pots, and it's a great way of recycling. Last year's plastic pots can be reused as long as they are sterilized with a quick dip in a dilute bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water). Tofu tubs, milk cartons, margarine tubs and other household items can be used also, provided a few holes are punched into the bottom for drainage. Some gardeners like to place a layer of newspaper in the bottom of their pots to keep soil from escaping.

Now that your pots are ready and lined up in a tray or on a shelf, fill them almost to the top with soil. Shake or tap the pots to help the soil settle, but do not pack the soil. Commercial seed starting soils or potting soils have the advantage of being sterilized so that weed seeds and diseases are destroyed. Unfortunately, so are most nutrients, so seedlings will need fertilizing. Potting mix can be made at home by mixing equal parts of compost and vermiculite. Moisten the soil that that when squeezed, it forms a small ball that crumbles easily when tapped. Make sure not to overwater or the seeds may rot. Dig small holes with your finger, a pencil, a piece of doweling or the tool of your choice. The depth of the holes should be approximately three times the length of the seed. Cover loosely with dirt. If the seeds are very small or the seed packet indicates that the seeds need full light to germinate, press them into the top layer of soil but do not cover them. Mist all seeds and cover with plastic wrap, glass or a germination dome. If the packet states that the seeds need total darkness to germinate, cover them with black plastic or another light-blocking material. Leave all coverings on until the plants have cotyledons and one set of true leaves.

Make sure to label your pots so that you don't forget which plant is which. This will help you keep track of when to transplant and help you determine what types of seeds may do better with special care.

Special needs seeds

Some seeds need extra attention before they will germinate and the seed packets should indicate the conditions under which the seed will grow. Usually, the conditions of the plant's native environment will need to be simulated so that the seeds can be tricked into germinating. Many seeds need soaking before they are planting. Soaking times range from one hour to overnight.

Other seeds need to experience "winter," a process which can be recreated through stratification. Stratification involved chilling the seeds in a moist environment before planting them. One way to stratify is to place several wrung out, wet paper towels in the bottom of a Tupperware container. Spread the seeds onto the towels. Cover with more towels. Place the lid onto the Tupperware and them put the container into the refrigerator. Stratification times differ from plant to plant, with most requiring at least two weeks. When "winter" is over, tear up the paper towels and place pieces with a few seeds on them into pots and proceed as normal.

Scarification involved nicking or wearing down the outer layer of the seed. For large seeds, this can be accomplished by creating grooves on the outer layer only of the seeds. For smaller seeds, place a piece of sandpaper into a jar, with the rough edge facing in. Throw in a bunch of seeds, screw on the lid and shake until the outer layer of the seeds has been roughed up. Soak the seeds for at least an hour before planting.

Now that you've planted, wash the dirt off your hands and make yourself a hot cup of cocoa. You've had a long day in the garden. But now, even in the drab, drear days of February you can watch your garden grow, knowing that you'll have the first juicy tomatoes, succulent peppers and crunchy greens on the block.

Kimberly Christensen lives and gardens in Wallingford.


Reader Comments

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VANESSA ZOMORA Oct 17, 2002 E.A.HALL WATSONVILLEC.A
   I LOVE SIENCE
Carl Becker Feb 28, 2003 Silver Spring, MD Accountable property Officer
    I found the information informative and helpful.
jenny Mar 25, 2003 fort worth texas train dispatcher
   this was helpful
kathryn Oct 06, 2003 boston, ma arts
   i really enjoyed the article - a perfect amount of information for a beginner like me.
retsam dees Feb 19, 2004 murfreesboro philosopher
   i need troubleshooting advice more than initial germination advice.

 

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