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Good Food
Good FoodComfort Food and Community in a Snowy Spring
By Zachary D. Lyons
Mar 28, 2002 -- As I looked for the silver lining to a snowy first day of spring, I found it in a neighborhood restaurant. An expatriate New Yorker, I have learned to avoid sharing the road with anyone around here when it snows. I canceled plans to review a restaurant on Capitol Hill, and I decided to try someplace new closer to home--a relatively new Italian restaurant at the corner of Ballard Avenue and Market Street. Necessity can be the mother of discovery.
The Friday night crowd at La Romantica. Zachary D. Lyons photo. |
Walking into La Romantica, you might never know that this used to be Ballard Computer. La Romantica is dominated by a wonderful central gas fireplace--perfect on a cold evening. Owners Aniello and Antonia Iodice have done a spectacular job of transforming this space into a pleasant and relaxing dining space. In fact, Aniello did the entire design and build-out of the space himself. He is also responsible for the design of other well-known area restaurants, including La Buca, Gaspare and Bellevue's Firenze.
The Iodices opened La Romantica in May of 2001, after retiring their previous restaurant, Luna Rosa, on Roosevelt Way. They wanted a place in Ballard, and they decided the old computer store would fit the bill. Their restaurant is a family affair. Aniello is the chef. Antonia is the manager. Daughter Maria Grazia prepares desserts and appetizers, and son Giuseppe helps out, too.
Aniello grew up on the Island of Ischia, near the Island of Capri, off the central coast of Italy. Antonia is from Sicily. Their menu is filled with classic Italian recipes, like Spaghetti Pomodoro and Puttanesca, Linguini al Gambero and a mix and match pasta section with such traditional sauces as Bolognese and Amatriciana. One look at the menu, and you'll know you have stumbled onto the real deal.
We tried the Spaghetti Carbonara and Penne Arrabiata. Carbonara, like Puttanesca, is not uncommon of Seattle menus, but it is often Americanized--peas added to Carbonara, or artichoke hearts added to Puttanesca. For the purist, this can be very disheartening. At La Romantica, what you find is authenticity. The Carbonara is simply spaghetti tossed with egg, parmigiano cheese, parsley, pancetta and "a touch of cream." Not a carton--a touch. It reminded me of what my Italian roommate used to make. Simple. Basic. The mac 'n cheese of Italy. True comfort food on a frigid night. Arrabiata is quite difficult to find in Seattle, perhaps because the sauce takes a good six hours to make. But this classic Italy sauce is one of my favorites, and the spicy, garlicky tomato sauce known at the "angry sauce" is executed exceptionally well here, and worth the trip from any neighborhood.
Portions are generous, desserts bold (we had the Tiramisu and the Spumanti Gelato), and service friendly and informative (our server, Leonardo Lanzolla, also teaches Italian locally, and is a painter and sculptor--how Italian!). Prices are quite reasonable. And vegetarians will find many options.
La Romantica, 2221 NW Market St, 789-3922, Open Monday - Thursday 5 - 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 - 10 p.m.
(From left) Tammy Leland, Patrick Lavery, Laurie Miller and Dan Travers dig in with gusto at Hi Spot. Zachary D. Lyons photo. |
Okay, it's the parks issue. What's a food writer to do? I know. There are like 16 gajillion parks within spitting distance of Madrona. So off to Hi Spot Cafe we went.
Mike Walker is the fourth owner in the 23-year history of this cozy place built into a 1904 Victorian house connected to a storefront. Mike has owned it for eight years now, and he has steadily refined the place. "Funky-chic" is what some regulars call it, Mike said. It is an understandable label. People of all economic levels comfortably intermingle here in a neighborhood known for its upscale residents. Folks wait in line for up to an hour on weekends for Hi Spot's fine breakfasts, and the street-level coffee shop is always alive with locals enjoying hot beverages and terrific house-baked pastries.
Our breakfast was filling and tasty. Huevos a la Mexicana hit the spot. Corn tortillas are scrambled with eggs, green chilies, cheddar and scallions, and topped with fresh house salsa. The pancakes were fluffy and satisfying, without being overwhelming like so many can be, and topped with pure maple syrup and real butter, they warmed this New England boy's heart. The yummy chicken sausage comes from Ballard's CasCioppo Brothers, but the Country Sausage is made in-house. We gobbled up the home fries--red skinned spuds tossed in a zesty mix of seasonings, they were simple and fine. The cinnamon roll was huge, and wonderful--so much better than that corporate mall swill.
Hi Spot offers a wide variety of egg and omelette dishes, pastries and baked goods, and hot and cold beverages. The midday menu offers and nice selection of sandwiches, soups, salads and creative daily specials, as well as a limited breakfast menu on weekdays. Breakfast is served all day on weekends. And in warmer months, Mike opens up the outdoor patio, which seats an additional 45 people.
Hi Spot Cafe, 1410 34th Avenue, 325-7905, Open Monday - Friday 7 a.m. - 4 p.m. (breakfast served 8 - 11:30 a.m., midday menu 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.), Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. (breakfast served 8 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.), NO CHECKS.
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| Roland | Oct 12, 2004 | Capitol Hill | own business |
| This spot is not a friendly place. Even though right down the street is a major population of African Americans, The Hi-Spot seems to have an hier of racism if you're not white. | |||
