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Good Food
Good FoodFood from Way South in Greenwood and Belltown
By Zachary D. Lyons
Shawn Boxe and Eardley Walker enjoy a meal at Western Vine. Zachary D. Lyons photo. |
Upon entering this place, the bright colors and airiness will transport you to a sunnier place. Enjoy a pitcher of house-made sangria or a bottle of Red Stripe downstairs in the bar, or settle in upstairs for a feast of Caribbean delights at a table under a lively painting. Western Vine is fueled by Island energy, which means wander in, relax, and stay for a while.
Richard Dwyer opened Western Vine in 1997, after spending two years cooking in Barbados and Jamaica. Born in England, and making his way to Seattle via Canada, Dwyer's family originates from the Caribbean. He took a break from catering and returned to Barbados in 1995 to help a restaurateur open a new place. While Dwyer was there, he learned all he could about preparing the dishes of his roots. We can now enjoy his effort in his friendly Belltown eatery.
I enjoyed the food here so much, I was forced to visit a second time to try more. I can tell you now with confidence: it's all good. Bahamian Seafood Fritters were paired nicely with a Kingston-style ketchup, offering up a tasty, toothsome experience. Sugar Reef Wings were wonderful, and the Western Vine Secret Sauce rocks. Jamaican Patties come with your choice of chicken, beef or vegetables, but on this night it was beef that they had. Flaky pastry wrapped around the filling, they come with a terrific barbecue sauce for dipping. If they offer a special of Roti pieces with chipotle tomato sauce or a black-eyed pea mash, go for it. All of the starters--yes, these are just the starters--came accompanied by an incredible red cabbage salad with a dressing of toasted sesame oil and rice wine.
Entrees hint at the Caribbean's role as way-station between Africa and the New World. While the Caribbean Jerk Chicken is quintessentially Caribbean--and to die for--Curried Goat is distinctly African. While not so popular here, goat is one of the most common domestic herd animals kept by nomadic peoples throughout Africa and the Middle East. Here it is cooked slowly in a mild Caribbean curry until tender and delicious, and not at all gamy. Oxtail Stew, another African throwback, is falling off the bone good, though if you do not suck the bones clean, the Islanders in the place might scold you. Lomo de Puerco, surely left behind by the Spanish Conquistadors, is a juicy pork dish accompanied by a nice serrano-tomato chutney and chorizo (yes, the Spanish sausage) mashed potatoes. All night the room kept filling with the smell of garlic, as the kitchen prepared Lassi Vali Kari, an East Indian vegetable dish with a buttermilk tomato sauce.
For dessert, we enjoyed a yummy gooey lemon tort, and a simply dangerous key lime cheesecake, which even this picky purist cheesecake hound did not hesitate to devour.
Western Vine, 81 Vine St, 728-1959, Open Tuesday - Thursday 5 p.m. - 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. - midnight.
Maria Guyllen (behind counter) takes an order from Sam Sullivan at Taqueria Tequila. Zachary D. Lyons photo. |
Amen! Finally, an authentic taqueria in the North End, and it is seven blocks from my house. No more pining for a business trip to Yakima, or fighting traffic to South Park. Taqueria Tequila has arrived.
This place is straight out of Southern California, literally. Owner Juan Hueso moved up here from there last August specifically to take over the space then occupied by a Salvadoran restaurant. He named the place for his hometown in Guadalajara, not the potent alcoholic beverage, which is also named after his hometown.
I immediately felt transported by Taqueria Tequila to any of a number of taquerias in immigrant farmworker strongholds like Yakima, or Woodburn, Oregon, or Pasadena for that matter. Tacos range from a buck to just under two bucks for the shrimp ones. Combos range from $4.95 to $7.95, and nothing on the menu tops $10.95. Posole and menudo are always available. This place is the real deal, and the steady stream of north end Latinos entering the place is proof positive.
The Veggie Enchilada and Burrito Combo was tasty, nicely seasoned, and not at all heavy. No cheese burial here. It came sided by good rice and beans. The posole was rich with pork and hominy, and served with plenty of fresh lime, chopped onion, lettuce and cilantro for mixing in. I love this stuff--the mac 'n' cheese of Mexico--and they serve it up well here. We tried four different tacos: chorizo, asada (steak), lengua (tongue), and camaron (prawn). These little mouth stuffers are full of flavor, hit the spot, and are small and cheap enough that you can try a few different kinds in one sitting for a veritable cornucopia of taste sensations (sorry).
While not offering tequila the beverage, Taqueria Tequila does offer a great selection of Mexican beers and soft drinks. Classic Latino music gently fills the air by day, and popular Latino music videos are pumped in via satellite at night.
This place deserves to dash the curse of restaurant turnover on this corner once and for all, and I command all of you to make it so, for my sake.
Taqueria Tequila, 301 NW 85th St, 784-4699, Open Sunday - Thursday 9:30 a.m. - 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 9:30 a.m. - 10 p.m, no checks.
Reader Comments
Discuss this article in the forums!
| Chuck Humbert | Aug 01, 2005 | Olmsted Falls | |
| I wish to contact the Eardley Walker that worked with Holland America Cruises. If he is there, have him send me an e-mail | |||
| Rebecca Dravich | Nov 01, 2005 | Seattle, WA | Realtor |
| Still missing the Stalk Exchange. Any chance that you know what former owner, Laurie Dent is up to (new restaurant?) or how I might be able to get her recipe for her fried potato cakes? I keep trying to replicate the potato cakes – but to no avail. | |||
