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Good Food
Good FoodBallard and Central Area Know Their Fish
By Zachary D. Lyons
Jul 18, 2002 -- There is something distinctly fishy about my review this time. Be it the wonderful salty smell of low tide at Shilshole Bay, the clean, sweet experience of the meat of our prized local crustacean on my tongue, or the rich flavor of everyone's favorite muddy river fish fresh out of the fryer, there is plenty to celebrate this week.
Tasty treats at the Baithouse Cafe. Zachary D. Lyons photo. |
Many who enjoy the extraordinary view, the celebrated food, and the hideaway location of Ballard's Baithouse Cafe may not realize that, as the name suggests, one can also load up on fish bait there, too.
Baithouse Cafe is indeed one of Seattle's hidden jewels--and I do mean hidden. Located on the canal side of Seaview Avenue NW, it is just west of the railroad overpass and the locks, where the road bends to the north. Look carefully for the Baithouse sign out by the mailboxes by some old railroad tracks. Once you find it, you need to pull in across those tracks and into one of the eight or nine paved parking spots. Then walk down the steps to the left, to the canal side of the building. Just don't come between 3 and 6:30 p.m., when they're closed.
Fresh Dungeness crab meat is the name of the game at the Baithouse. It is offered two ways: on the Caesar Salad, or in the Open Faced Crab Melt. Both are critically acclaimed far and wide, and with good reason. The Caesar is crisp and fresh with perfect Romaine lettuce, tossed with Baithouse's clean and snappy Caesar dressing and shredded Parmesan, and then topped with simply spectacular crab meat. The Crab Melt--built upon grilled sourdough--is an inspired concoction of cheese, crab, and dressing, and explodes in your mouth with utterly satisfying flavor. And while both might seem pricey (due to the high market price of the full quarter pound of crab meat they use), they are more than worth it. You will find yourself craving them ever after.
The Caesar is also available naked, or with large Alaskan shrimp. And the Crab Melt comes with a choice of a side Caesar, or a cup of homemade soup which changes daily. On one visit they offered Smoked Salmon Chowder. On another, it was Shrimp Creole. They're all good. During lunch ours, Baithouse also offers a mix-and-match sandwich menu, in halves and wholes, again with soup or salad. Sandwiches are fresh and hearty. There is even a French Dip on the menu, and sometimes there's one sitting at one of the tables!
Baithouse Cafe features live music Wednesday through Saturday evenings. Enjoy jazz on Friday and Saturday, and alternative acoustic on Wednesday and Thursday. It also offers fine local microbrews on tap, and fresh made iced tea and lemonade. Just be sure to wear your sunscreen and sunglasses.
Baithouse Cafe, 5517 Seaview Ave NW, 297-9109, www.baithouse.vista.com, Open Tuesday - Sunday, noon - 3 p.m., and 6:30 - 9:30ish p.m., $ - $$.
Catfish Corner features fine fish fry. Zachary D. Lyons photo. |
If you have ever enjoyed a backyard fish fry, Southern Style, you know how tasty and fun they are. You break out the propane burner and metal stand for your grease pot, fire it up, and then drop your fresh fish--catfish, bass, whatever--in the big Ziploc back of batter you made with cornmeal or flour, and your favorite seasonings, shake it all up, and then drop the fish into the hot grease, where it fries up to perfection in just a couple of minutes. You do the same with potatoes, onion rings, veggies, whatever, and you've got yourself a good meal.
Well, Rosie and Woody Jackson, owners of Catfish Corner, used to do just that. A buddy of Woody's from work used to bring back fresh fish with him after trips South, and they would fry it up.
Located at the intersection of MLK, Jr. Boulevard and Cherry Street, Catfish Corner serves up classic Southern fish fry. Catfish is the star, and deservedly so, but you can also get red snapper, prawns, and even Buffalo fish on weekends. Catfish comes whole or filleted. I recommend fillets for amateurs, as they are less work. For the kids who won't eat fish, but will eat burgers, they have them, too. Just remember, it is not called "Burger Corner". Go for the fish.
Catfish Corner also has great sides, including slaw, potato salad, hushpuppies, collard greens, candied yams, cornbread, and beans and rice. The collard greens are particularly good, and the beans and rice are nicely seasoned and satisfying. Note that both are flavored with pork. The store also makes its own special tartar sauce. It is one of the best tartar sauces I have ever encountered, designed especially to accent the catfish. I normally set my tartar sauce aside, but not at Catfish Corner.
The slogan is, "Try our catfish, and if you like it, tell a friend, and if not, tell us." Okay friends, I am here to testify. I like their catfish!
Catfish Corner, 2726 E Cherry St @ MLK, 323-4330, www.mo-catfish.com, Open Monday - Friday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Saturday, noon - 10 p.m., NO CHECKS, $.
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